Try spraying it with WD40 and if that doesn’t work you might want to use CLR to see if you can melt the mineral deposits.
HIRE A PLUMMER
WD 40 or spray cans of FREE.
Use WD40 or a 3 in 1 oil. You may have to let it set a few minutes after applying. And it may take more than one application of wd40 .
After you spray with WD40 or a 3 in 1 oil, use a cheater bar with your wrench: a pipe or something that fits over the end to give you better leverage. Make sure you turn slowly and don’t break the sink.
Two words: BASIN WRENCH
You need a basin wrench, and you need to be sure you are turning that sucker the right way. A little WD40 left on the offending connection overnight might help too.
a product called liquid wrench
1st soak the nut with any penetrate solvent such as WD40, Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster. These are available at any auto parts store. While the nut is soaking with the penetrate tap the nut vibration will allow additional penetrate into the threads to help loosen them. 2nd. Try loosening the nut again while tapping the nut. If this does not come loose you might want to try a little heat, with a propane torch. IF YOU DO USE THE HEAT MAKE SURE YOU REMOVED THE PENETRATE AND WASHED ALL THE SURFACES. THE PENETRATES ARE EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE.
REMEMBER: Righty an tighty. Lefty a loosey. Unless for some reason you have a left handed nut then the process would be reversed.
If you are replacing the faucet, just break it off, even from the top. Throw it away. I ended up doing this after messing with the basin wrench for 30 mins. The sink is tough enough to hold up, the faucet components are often chromed plastic, which distort when you use a basin wrench anyhow. Use Teflon tape when you put your new faucet on to avoid this the next time.
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